The name's Pommery, Madame Pommery.
For many of us, the death of our partner would stop us in our tracks. Stricken with grief and unable to tread through the sorrowful waters. However, for a cohort of widows in France, the passing of their husbands brought new challenges that they were forced to face, irrespective of their broken hearts (between you and me, some say the husbands did not simply die, but perhaps met an untimely death at the hands of their beloved, possibly this is simply salacious gossip). Such was the case for some of Champagne’s most revered names, Clicquot, Bollinger and the woman at the heart of this story, Pommery.
In 19th-century France, women were forbidden to own a business without permission from their father or husband unless they were widowed. Now, can you see where the rumours above may have originated?
Following her husband's death in 1858, Madame Pommery became the head of a Champagne house. Was this a dream or a burden? However Madame Pommery may felt, it made no difference to this determined woman, who set her sights sky high and built the reputation of Domaine Pommery, catapulting its name onto the world stage.
Read on to dip your toes into the world of Domaine Pommery.
While sweet Champagne was the drink du jour, Madame Pommery created Pommery Nature, widely believed to be the first brut style, in 1874. Her venture was met with scepticism and sarcasm, but it soon proved to be a roaring success. It’s no wonder that this style makes up the majority of Champagne consumed today.
In 1868 she began the Trojan work of converting the vast chalk quarries on the estate into wine cellars, and if you’ve had the pleasure of visiting you’ll know exactly how magnificent they are. The cellar walls are adorned with awe-inspiring sculptures by Gustav Navlet, a renowned French sculptor. These were completed in 1884, and today are mirrored by modern art exhibitions, a decision made by the new Vranken owners - showcasing a harmonious blend of Pommery’s history and present artistic prowess.
In October 2023 I visited Domaine Pommery and was left speechless by my experience there. My good friend Lorcan O’Brien, who works for Dalcassian Wines & Spirits very kindly arranged a visit for me - you’re on the Christmas card list forever - and our tour kicked off by meeting our uber-passionate host Christine Prudhomme. Christine’s love for Pommery is simply infectious, with every sentence of history she shared it was evident that she believes so strongly in Domaine Pommery and its legacy.
Speaking to news.com.au during an article on the role of widows in the story of Champagne (that’s another fascinating tale for another time), Christine said of Madame Pommery, "We don't know if Monsieur Pommery drank too much Champagne, or perhaps not enough, but he dies and leaves his business to the young widow". Continuing on she said, "When he died, it was perhaps the opportunity she was looking for. She didn't just want to be a wife. Her (widowhood) really gave her wings."
Christine was interviewed on The Reims Show, sharing her knowledge and expertise on Champagne and Domaine Pommery. You can watch the interview below. Christine’s passion and admiration of Madame Pommery leaps from the screen, and having met her in person this was evident to see.
We finished our visit in the on-site restaurant, where we enjoyed a delicious three-course lunch, paired with Pommery 2009 (still dreaming about this bottle), while the sun streamed in the windows and we luxuriated in the restaurant surroundings.
Would Madame Pommery have been a Wine Spirit Women member like myself? Perhaps she was the original? Pushing boundaries, breaking stereotypes and becoming a true visionary. We shall never know, but we do know her innovative spirit and vision for both Pommery and Champagne as a whole will be remembered eternally. Santé.
This past June I was invited to attend the Champagne Academy, spending a week in the region on an intensive course learning about this historic bubble. Once again, I was privileged to return to Domaine Pommery to explore the cellars and visit their impressive and evolving art gallery. On this visit, I was treated to vintage Les Clos Pompadour and Cuvée Louise, but I’ll talk more about that wonderful eve another time!
Visiting Reims? You can arrange a visit to Domaine Pommery here and experience this unique and fascinating house for yourself.